Golden Poppy is just out the gate, but its delicious, cosmopolitan dishes look like they may help to see off the entrenched French conviction that Americans mostly subsist on unhealthy junk food. On the edge of the holidays, the most talked about new opening in Paris is Golden Poppy, bringing California cuisine by French-born, San Francisco-based chef Dominique Crenn, which replaces the still great Restaurant Omar Dhiab. During this slow season, remember that hotel restaurants, brasseries, and global cuisines remain your best bets. Though tourism in Paris is booming this year, the French are still inviolably attached to their summer vacations, so many restaurants are shutting down for a few weeks. There’s also been a renaissance of Paris’s long-established gastronomic landscape, with traditional bistros, brasseries, and stylish restaurants serving classic French cooking made famous by chef Auguste Escoffier. Plus there’s an inventive and diverse array of casual dining options, like the affordable Café du Coin, excellent Montmartre bistro Le Maquis, and Parcelles, an outstanding bistrot a vins in the Marais. The French capital is bustling with a brilliant constellation of restaurants these days, including a bevy of openings that show off how deliciously cosmopolitan it’s become: Menkicchi is maybe the best ramen shop in town, young French Malian chef Mory Sacko cooks stunningly original dishes at Mosuke, and Korean-born chef Sukwon Yong shows off the growing influence of Asia on contemporary French cooking at the reboot of Le Bistrot Flaubert. Paris has reclaimed its status as one of the world’s favorite cities to eat.
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